“For all the clients who go for the edgier looks, there are just as many who prefer something a little more polished,” says Barry Zehr, Salon Cielo creative team leader. “With Classic Cool, we’ve created a collection of timeless looks that are made modern through color and texture.”
Lisa: Golden highlights complemented by soft, face-framing fringe give this classic bob a more modern finish. Get the color by first sectioning out a horseshoe on top. Foil with lightener and 20-volume peroxide, slicing in with golden blonde in the fringe. To get the cut, establish a weight line with vertical and diagonal graduation in back panels. Using a pivot and traveling guide, move from the center to the edges in exterior back panels. Once the weight line is established, maintain diagonal graduation. When you reach the top of the ear, bring the next section from back through to front, using higher elevation in back and low elevation in front, keeping the diagonal shape from occipital bone to jawline. Cut from side to side for balance until complete. Carve out circular fringe and face frame.
Gisele: Gisele’s natural, close-cut style is sophisticated and chic. Get the color by brushing the exterior in a one-inch band around the hairline with level 3. Apply level 4 to the rest of the hair in the interior. To get the cut, use a graduation method and a large-tooth comb to taper the hair in to the nape of the neck and side panels. Use the comb to round-layer the interior for a natural head shape.
Tanya: Panels and layers are accentuated by shades of blonde and gold for Tanya’s sleek, sexy look. For the color, slice hair into sections from front to back. Moving toward the crown, apply a semi-permanent color level 6 with a gold base to foil one and lightener with 20-volume to foil 2. Continue in this one-two foil pattern, moving from the front of the head back toward the crown. Make more dramatic in the middle of the head by placing two darker slices (foil 1) back-to-back against a lighter slice (foil 2). Also, try alternating a level 6 gold with a level 6 neutral for your semi-permanent color slices. For the cut, keep a solid perimeter by using a scissor-under-comb technique. Establish a square shape by using slightly diagonal sections. Discontinue technique at the crestline. Use concave layers in interior to bring more movement to front panels than back panels. Use forward graduation to frame the face. When dry, channel hair to take away excess weight and create more separation.
Jay: Jay’s natural color and texture provide a perfect canvas for creating a cool, urban style. Apply silicon gel or molding mud to sections of hair from roots to ends. Pull and wrap sections around a chopstick, then pull chopstick through to expose twists.
Emily: Emily’s choppy perimeter gives texture and movement to an otherwise simple design. For the color, divide hair into three sections around the head, from bottom to top. The first, lowest section will be the darkest, created with a level 4 with neutral base and 20-volume. Color the middle section using a level 6 with golden copper base and 30-volume. Use a level 5 with mahogany base and 20-volume for the top section. Start with the lowest section and do the top diamond last, keeping sections separate with foil.
For the design, establish a perimeter with horizontal graduation, elevating higher in the back for more width and lower in front for a stronger line. Use square-shaped sections to achieve a curved shape. Use square shape in back panel with a pivot to stay consistent. Direct vertical-shaped sections in the front panel back to just behind the ear to maintain length in front.
Establish a fringe to bring attention to the eyes, then walk the scissors from the edge of the fringe to the corner of the side panel to create shape and a blend. Texturize the perimeter in the back with thinning scissors and remove weight where necessary to personalize haircut when dry.
Jeremy: Jeremy’s classic GQ style gets an edge by buffing the ends with a rich, brown color. Mix a level 5 ash with 20-volume peroxide. Stand dry hair on end with gel and give a quick shot with a dryer to hold upright. Apply color to a foil sheet. Buff across top section, hitting tips only, then process for 30 minutes. For the design, create a horseshoe section on the top of the head to divide interior from exterior. Use vertical graduation to create shape in exterior with extended elevation at the very perimeter for extra length and an elongated shape. Consistently use square layers until you reach the recession area, then direct hair back to a stationary guide to keep length at the very front. Texturize to remove weight from the interior.
